I need some help. I am going to trap furbearing animals and need some answers. Mostly, it looks like, I will be trapping beaver, muskrat and mink, but bobcat and raccoon may also be on the list. I have never trapped anything except mice before. Mostly, I need to know what traps to buy (and what to look for- I cant afford new traps at 21 bucks each so will be buying used ones). I also dont know how or where to set the traps- the beaver I have some idea, as I scouted the area today and found "beaver trails" where they have been going ashore. The area desperately needs to have its beaver population cut back some, as they are destroying 200+ year old trees, and really mucking the whole bottom up. Also, where would I find someone locally (or I would even ship them) who would buy furs? And what is the accepted practice on care of the furs- I have plenty of experience skinning and such, but dont know what the particulars are. Any advice would help!

-- Kevin in NC (Vantravlrs@aol.com), November 19, 2001

Answers

Kevin, I have no experience with water trapping, but I catch a few raccoons every year. I could help you with them maybe. You may also want to check out www.trapperman.com. Go to the message board. There are alot of knowledgeable, experienced trappers there. If you need help with the 'coon, just drop me an email. As far as fur handling goes, beaver are stretched open in an oval shape, mink, muskrats, and coon are case skinned, fleshed, then stretched fur in. Mink and 'rats require very little fleshing, but coons are tough. They are covered with fat.

-- Mike PA (mleeyworm@yahoo.com), November 20, 2001.

There is a guy around the corner from us(around the corner is a mile off out here in the boonies) and he traps and sells furs. I will call over there today and get more information for you. He skins them and scrapes the ucky off and then rolls them up fur inside and keeps them in his freezer. I know because he came over here and helped my boys learn to skin a coon. He then takes all of the frozen pelts to a place in Missouri once or twice a year.

-- Nan (davidl41@ipa.net), November 20, 2001.

There is a website named www.buckshotscamp.com, which deals with the subject of animal trapping. I know they have a trapping guide in book form, but you may want to take a look at this site; I think it may be helpful to you. Good luck.

-- j.r. guerra (jrguerra@boultinghousesimpson.com), November 20, 2001.

Kevin, My husband and I trapped for 12 years when we lived in upstate NY above and beyond the money the furs brought, the time together were the special times and I wouldn't trade them for anything.

My best advise is make sure your traps are in good working order so it does the job the quickly and humane. Fur is a renewable resource and is there for the taking. Make sure your drowning sets are just that, and above all check your traps every 24 hours it's the law in most states.

Flesh out your pelts and roll them up and freeze them until their is a fur buyers sale you will get a better price for them as if they are in a warm place not only do they sometimes smell but you get hair loss and won't get as much for the pelt.

Maybe I could answer other questions if you want. Sally

-- (mallardhen67@hotmail.com), November 20, 2001.

Kevin, be sure to check out your state laws. Where I am you have to have a license to sell furs.

-- diane (gardiacaprines@yahoo.com), November 20, 2001.

Kevin,

If you want more information look for a magazine called Fur-Fish- Game. Try Barnes and Noble or somewhere where they sell a lot of magazines. I believe it is still being published. It has articles about trapping and places where you can get more information on the subject.

Talk to you later.

Talk to you later.

-- Bob in WI (bjwick@hotmail.com), November 20, 2001.

Kevin:

I can't speak for other animals, but I don't think you will find much of a market for raccoon pelts. At one time, when raccoon skin coats and Davy Crocket hats were the rage, locally you could get up to $12 for a nice, large pelt. One of my neighbors worked for TVA clearing out what is now KY Lake during the day, came home, took a nap, ate and then went out coon hunting. They would build a campfire, let the dogs loose and then argue as to whose coon dog had picked up the scent. Came home in the early morning, took another nap, ate and then went to work. Even though the TVA was paying very, very good wages, he often made more money off of the coons than from TVA. His son says, when he was young, he ate so much roasted raccoon he is surprised he doesn't have rings around his eyes.

There is still a local Coon Club, but I think it is now as much of a social thing as actual coon hunting. For one thing, it is becoming increasingly hard to get landowner permission.

I thought the magazine was Fish, Fur and Game or Fish, Fur and Fun. It was, and may still be, published out of Columbus, OH. Check the Guide to Periocicals at your local library. Also check with them to see if they can get books on trapping through inter-library loan. I have three: Successful Trapping Methods by Walter Chansler, Survival Poaching by Ragnar Benson and Animal Traps and Trapping by James A. Bateman.

As noted, check with your local Wildlife Agency so you know what the laws are in your state. For example, I believe some forbid leghold traps. They should also be able to refer you to buyers.

I catch 2-3 racoons a month in a livetrap baited with sardines.

A private, state licensed, animal control person in Nashville charges $40 to set a trap and then $40 for each one captured.

-- Ken S. in WC TN (scharabo@aol.com), November 20, 2001.

Get a copy of the magazine that Ken mentioned: Fur-Fish_game 2876 E Main, St. Columbus, OH 43209

This magazine is devoted at least partially to the sport of trapping fur bearing animals. Has lots of "how to" articles, and many suppliers advertise there. They also have a classified ad section. Perhaps you can find some used equipment there.

-- Ed Copp (OH) (edcopp@yahoo.com), November 20, 2001.

Some great responses, thannks, folks... Ok, I may have answered some of my own questions, but still have some others. Heres how my day went: drove the 1 hour drive (there only) to junk store to buy traps. They were closed, sign said until further notice... and the traps were laying right out front, too (not to worry, they are still there). Drove back to town, and bought new traps instead.. had to bite the bullet on that one. I will probabally go buy some more as I learn to use these. I also got a pair of trap setters- the guy at the store showed me how to set a trap (the big 330 conibear), the result being: he accidentaly snapped a rivet on one and I said, if he would knock a couple bucks off, i would be glad to take that one bc all it needed was a small bolt put where the rivet was. He knocked off 4 bucks per 330 trap. I bought: a number 1 1/2 leg hold (I feel wonderful knowing what the heck they are called now!), a 1 3/4 leg hold, two 330s, and a muskrat connibear (not sure on its designation- smaller than a 220, though). He told me to let the traps sit in some water for a while to remove scent. Ok, as far as laws go, I have my hunting/ trapping license. The leghold traps are legal. 330's have to be set at least 1/2 submerged (to be legal). Coons are legal, but they dont apparently pay much (but western coons, I was told, do.. ill get to that in a min). Otters (and bobcats) require a federal tag in order to sell- the price is 2.20 each. I next researched, online, a place to sell the pelts. Only one, and its a DRIVE to get there- about 6 hours total. I will continue to look for a more local place- if anyonne knows of one in VA or closer to coastal NC, it would be of help... The guy who buys the pelts was of help. Still unnsure of how to stretch the hides though- he spoke of round (or, mmaybe, oval?) hoops. He said they sell them. Would the end ring from a plastic drum work (I have lots of those), he also mentioned some thing about a board. I dont have acess to a freezer- mine is stuffed silly with deer meat. Would salting the hides lightly help? Would I do that before or after they are dried? I could also keep the hides high and dry in the hay loft, annd its cool in there too, as it faces the north and the hay moderates the temp. And, the guy who sold me the traps told me (he admitted he was not a trapper) to bury the leg hold traps with chicken fat 1 foot to 18 inches deep and let the animal dig the trap until it caught him. Does this sound right? Where would I go about placeing the traps- beaver I think I can like make it up as I go, but muskrat, or mink or the leghold bobcat and fox? Does one bait mink? and can beaver be caught with a leghold trap? The prices for pelts surprised me- honestly, I would have done this trappinng thing if all the hides were bringing a buck each (more for the experience!) but that was not the case. Fox (red) go for 15-20, beaver 18 to 21, grey fox 3 bucks, mink 5 for female, 10 for males; otter: 40 to 50 bucks, raccon: 5 each, didnt get a price on bobcat. Man, I sure feel like Big Bob the Canadian Voyager now! I am sure I forgot something to ask!

-- Kevin in NC (vantravlrs@aol.com), November 20, 2001.

O.K., Kevin,

Slow down, relax and get a breath. You ask lots and lots of questions and you actually are on the right track with some of them. Way off base with others. Let me say this, it is most likely that you have already spent more than you will make trapping this year. Now that said it sounds like you will not have any problem getting some enjoyment and satisfaction from this project.

Let me reccomend a book for you. You may have some difficulty finding it, but you can probably get it from the authors family business. I think that the authou has passed away.

The book is:

"Trapping North American Furbearers" by S. Stanley Hawbaker

S. Stanley Hawbaker & Sons 258Hawbaker Drive, South Fort Loudon, PA 17224

This book has been written and revised many times over the lifetime of the author. It is considered to be the Bible for trapping in North America. The family business at one time did buy raw furs by mail. They also sold other supplies and traps.

All the questins and a lot more are answered in the book. Be aware that furs are the most valuable when they are "prime" that means when the fur is the fullest. This is caused by cold weather. Furs from the south usually are of somewhat less quality than furs from the north, say Canada or Alaska.

Mice, is a good start, and they make good bait for fox and other animals that will investigate the smell. If you have already bought some traps, I would suggest getting started with what you have now. Look around, and ask around. You will probably find someone arounf who can help you out with information and there are no doubt a few traps, and other supplies laying around. This will just be a matter of finding someone who has some equipment to sell, and a good story to tell. Ask your local game warden, most likely he can steer you to an old trapper who can give you some guidance.

Where and how to set traps could take a lifetime to learn, but a little reading and a little help from someone who has done it will go a long way.

New traps are usually boiled to remove any oils that may be on them from manufacture and shipping. Animals can smell the oils and will avoid the traps. Most trappers dye the traps during the boiling process. Thers are commercial dyes on the market, and some old timers used various kinds of bark and leaves to make the dye. A bucket full of walnut hulls is not too bad for a start anyway. The idea is to color the trap black so that it is not as visible in the out of doors. During the boiling and dyeing process it is common to wax the traps also. What I have done is this using a big pot full of water. Put it on the fire, I usually do mine outside and bring to a boil. Takd several traps and attach them together with a piece of wire long enough that you can get one end of the wire and lift the traps out of the water when done.. Now put the traps in the water and bring to a boil. Skim any form off the top of the boiling water. This will be the oils and impurities that you want to remove. Now add the walnut hulls or dye, and let it boil several hours. I usually just get it boiling real good and forget it until the next day. The fire will go out and the traps will set overnight in the dye. Next day I fire up the pot and get it boiling again, and when it is at full boil I put a pound of beeswax in the water. The wax will melt and float. When it is fully melted I take the wire and lift the traps out and then put them back in the pot. I do this several times to coat the traps with wax for a longer life. When done I lift the bundle of traps out and hang them somewhere to cool. Do not toutch them any more without clean gloves. They should be free of any human smells at this point.

-- Ed Copp (OH) (edcopp@yahoo.com), November 20, 2001.

My father trapped most all winter when I was a boy and too small to go with him. He died several years ago and my brother got out his old traps and got a liscence and did all the correct things. The scents or what ever he used to cover the trap oder attracted a champion hunting dog and you guessed it the dog got caught and since he had to put his id number on each trap he got to pay for the dog. Don't understand why anyone would pay eleven hundred dollars for a dog but thats what the owner had paid for that one. He was also fined for being curel to animals, the dog was drowned. Be careful and enjoy its fun but almost impossible to find a place to do it.

-- David (bluewaterfarm@mindspring.com), November 20, 2001.

In my state, Ohio The owners of all dogs must keep thier dogs under thier control at all times.

That is the law, of course most animal rights activists consider themselves to be excluded from the laws.

It would seem like a dog that was "under the control of the owner" would have a difficult time putting it's foot into a trap.

-- Ed Copp (OH) (edcopp@yahoo.com), November 20, 2001.

I tried to reply to your email with details you wanted. Does anyone else have a problem with sending email to AOL. Both my brother and the hunter with the dog had permission to be on the land. The dog was drowned it was a water set and here there is no leash law. Don't see how you could hunt with a dog on a leash. They are at the present making leg hold traps illegal around here if not already. If you catch someones animal dog cat goat what ever you will probably have to pay for it. If you are doing it for money forget it. If for fun and adventure go for it but try to find a old trapper and follow him around for a while. David

-- David (bluewaterfarm@mindspring.com), November 22, 2001.