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WE PACKED UP our
gloves and bats and drove away from the field and straight into a line of tanks
driving down a main thoroughfare. “It’s a coup!,” I cried. “Nonsense, darling,”
my mother said. “It’s a parade.” That was before she noticed the soldiers’ guns
were cocked and pointed. We spent the night stranded at a friends’ house,
huddling away from windows and listening to Russian MiGs strafe the presidential
palace. It was indeed a coup—the toppling of President Muhammed Daoud by
leftists. They were aided, of course, by Afghanistan’s “Great Friends to the
North,” the Soviets, who swiftly made their official claim on the country in
January 1979, when they rolled in and kick-started multiple chains of events
that eventually led to last week’s horror in New York—and the potential for new
horrors to come in Afghanistan itself. You
haven’t seen nostalgia until you talk to anyone—Afghan or foreign—who had the
luck to live in Afghanistan before its destruction. In the 1970s, the country
was poor but relatively peaceful. The foreigners who came, either as earnest
Peace Corps volunteers, development consultants or diplomats, wore their
missions lightly. (Indeed, some say too lightly: there were rumors, inevitable
and never confirmed, that one of my Little League coaches was CIA.)
In the late 1970s, Afghanistan was considered a diplomatic
and political backwater, but for many foreigners living in Kabul, it was an
enchanting one. Instead of military experts and MiGs, hippies traipsed through
in search of cheap hash and easy enlightenment. The legendary melons and grapes
were sweet, the Afghans bright and hospitable, and for ordinary people like my
parents, the challenge of trying to help the country develop wasn’t weighed down
by any Great Games. My father was a law professor who was sent to Afghanistan as
an advisor to the minister of justice. The idea was that he would help modernize
the country’s legal system. He’d set off in the morning on his Raleigh bicycle
to ride to the “Dr. Zhivago”-like palace and pore over legal codes. He’d address
law societies, with French-trained Afghan lawyers and miniskirted female lawyers
in attendance. |
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