Hello everyone! I have another lens question...

I will be travelling to Greece and Italy shortly and am considering purchasing another lens for my Nikon F60. Would a zoom or wide angle lens be best? Do I need a tripod? What is the best film to use? Would using the different "programs" of the camera produce good results?

I would like (if possible) to use this lens to take shots of churches , landscapes, buildings, and family shots as well.

I am a beginner at this and any advice would be appreciated.

Many thanks.

-- George Constantinou (gpcons@home.com), May 01, 2001

Answers

For travel, you need a light zoom lens that will minimize your baggage and the need to change lenses all the time. For shooting architecture, a wideangle lens is almost a must, I find 24mm the most useful. For shooting close-up portraits, a short focal length like a 85mm will give a very pleasant perspective. So, perhaps what you need is a 24-85mm zoom lens like the http://www.klt.co.jp/Nikon/LensGuide/index.html I don't think you'll need a

-- Hoyin Lee (leehoyin@hutchcity.com), May 01, 2001.

[Oops! Let's try again!]

For travel, the best lens to carry is perhaps a versatile zoom lens that will minimize your baggage and avoid the need to change lenses. For shooting architecture, a wideangle lens is almost a must, and I find 24mm the most useful. For shooting close-up portraits, a moderate telephoto lens like a 85mm is generally considered to be the "ideal" portrait lens. So, perhaps what you need is a 24-85mm zoom lens like the Nikkor AF 24-85mm f/2.8-4 IF (check it out here: http://www. klt.co.jp/Nikon/Nikkor_Lenses/index.html; check out also the Nikon website's guide to choosing a lens: http://www.klt. co.jp/Nikon/LensGuide/index.html.)

For film, a fast ISO 400 film is the best compromise between acceptable graininess and high film sensitivity that allows fast shutter speed (useful for capturing kids running about and dark church interiors). The best ISO 400 print and slide films I have used are Superia 400 and Provia 400F, both of which produce nice saturated colours and very fine grain.

I don't think you'll want to lug along a tripod in a holiday trip- -not only will it take up space in your luggage, you'll also find it a burden and of limited use. Try a monopod instead if you must use a camera support.

-- Hoyin Lee (leehoyin@hutchcity.com), May 01, 2001.

Depends on how you travel and how you shoot. Also, what you already have.

If you're like me, you have a traveling companion who may or may not want to sit around while you set up a tripod and fiddle with gear. For me, I found traveling with two fast primes was the easiest. I used a 24/2 and 50/1.4, relying on lens speed to carry the day without a flash or tripod (many places don't allow tripods anyway). For our trip to Germany, I used 400-speed print film; for our trip to England, I used 100-speed chrome. I never felt that I "missed a shot" because I didn't have an appropriate focal length. Travel light, maximize what you have, accept the fact that you'll often have to just buy the postcard (probably shot by a local pro who had all year to get the shot), and enjoy your trip.

The flexibility of a zoom can slow you down if you do your composing in the viewfinder. With a prime, you can compose in your head before you even bring the camera to your eye, a much quicker way to work. You can practice this technique with a zoom by determining and pre-setting a focal length before you bring your camera to your eye. You'll find that using this technique actually frees your mind to use your full focal length range, as opposed to the max/min approach most people end up using.

For my next trip, about three weeks long, I'll be traveling with my wife and 11-month-old son. Juggling the accoutrements of a small child makes changing lenses problematic (although I have become surpisingly adept at holding a squirming baby while changing a lens). I'm planning on taking the N65 (for its tiny size and autobracketing), 24-85/2.8-4 (for its range, speed, and close-focusing), and E100VS (a good scenic film and not a bad people film if you overexpose it by a half-stop). I'll also take a small digital p&s.

If you haven't the time to review a basic book on photography, then yes, the Vari-Programs will do a somewhat better job than the General-Purpose program at their specific tasks. You will find, though, that with a little knowledge you can beat the programs almost every time.

OK, here's a cool and easy technique for interiors. Use your widest lens, or your zoom at its widest setting. Use aperture-priority, maybe about f/4-5.6 (I guess that might correspond to the "Landscape" Vari-Program, which to me doesn't set a small enough aperture for landscapes, but there you go). Make sure you have the flash turned off. Set the focus manually to, oh, about the distance from the floor to the ceiling. Set the camera on the ground, under something interesting. Use the self-timer to fire the shutter, and just leave the camera on the ground until you hear the shutter close. It'll probably be several seconds. Obviously, watch for people who might trip over or steal your camera, but try not to hover too defensively.

-- John Kuraoka (john@kuraoka.com), May 02, 2001.

I would recommend the Fuji NPH 400 ISO print film. Expose it at 200 or 250 ASA.

-- Eric Laurence (Edgar1976@hotmail.com), May 27, 2001.

Hi George, I was in Italy last March. Presuming you already have an intermediate zoom covering 28 - 80mm, I strongly recommend that you get a 20mm prime lens. I used my Nikon 20mm lens extensively for the architecture shots and even then, have been found wanting when I couldn't back up further and still was not able to "swallow" up the building e.g. the Florence cathedral front facade was barely accommodated by the 20mm. Having said that, I would not recommend anything below 20mm due to its inherent curving of lines at the edges. The Nikon 20mm is highly rated, sharp, contrasty and quick at f.2.8. For films, I used the Fuji Superia 200 extensively which gives strong colours, stable at fluctuating temperatures and good resolution. If u're going into lots of cathedrals, carry some Fuji Superia 400 with u. Remember that most cathedrals do not allow flashes/tripods. So u may need to hand hold those shots. If your current zoom is not that fast i.e. f.3.5 or f.4 at the widest, then you need real steady hands or like what one respondent suggested, leave it on the ground or pice of furniture and set to self-timer. At least, ure then guaranteed of steady clear shots of the interior of buildings.

Have fun and remember, films are cheap, memories are priceless. So be generous with the films and go blasting away!

-- Alex Wong (alexwong@umland.com.my), December 12, 2001.