I have been wanting to experiment with Dektol a bit too control contrast. I have read that at hotter temperatures, Dektol gives you more contrast and at colder temps you get a softer effect. What I have in mind is diluting the developer quite a bit 1:8 and having it at 80 degrees instead of 68. This way it won't develop too fast because of the dilution but the temp increase will boost the contrast. Has anyone tried this or something similar? Also, what about using two developers like selectol soft in one tray and Dektol in the other. What kind of results should I expect and how do you go about it? Which one first etc? Thanks!!

-- Justin Fullmer (provo.jfullmer@state.ut.us), April 23, 2001

Answers

I don't imagine 80 deg is hot enough to increase contrast much, if any. My darkroom runs at 85 deg in summer, and contrast is not much affected using Dektol considerably more concentrated than you propose. Paper contrast is not affected by developer temperature and concentration nearly as much as is film contrast. If you want more contrast, use a higher paper grade.

-- Keith Nichols (knichols@iopener.net), April 23, 2001.

Justin, Using two developer trays, or even more, was a commom technique before VC papers came around. All the controls on tray stage are too subtle comparing to what contrast filters can do. And, as stated ahead, films respond much better to development contrast controls. So, it seems to be reasonable not to worry too much on what happens on the sink. Instead, take a close look at what you're doing on printing! That's where the magics happen.

Cesar B.

-- Cesar Barreto (cesarb@infolink.com.br), April 24, 2001.

Because (properly developed) prints are developed to completion playing with developer time/temp/dilution will hardly affect contrast at all. Seems to me alot of trouble to vary contrast less than 1/2 grade when there are great VC papers around.

-- Tim Brown (brownt@flash.net), April 24, 2001.

"Because (properly developed) prints are developed to completion"...

Not necessarily so. Just as many fine prints don't end up with a perfect black or white in them. You espose & develop so the print looks the way you want it to look. If this means you don't quite go to 'completion' in developing, so be it. This is not encouraging the pulling of prints too early, but getting a full scale print the way you want it does mean that at times you exercise creative control. Which can mean you play a bit with the development just as long as you get a good print.

-- Dan Smith (shooter@brigham.net), April 24, 2001.

And you have to be careful not to develop for too long because the highlights will become muddy. Build the right contrast into your negatives and print them properly. VC papers are so versatile that you needn't try and mess with the developer to gain or hold back contrast through the development of the paper. Expose the film properly to begin with and the paper will give you the proper image. James

-- james (james_mickelson@hotmail.com), April 25, 2001.

With either hot developer or straight (undiluted) developer, you will develop the blacks to completion before the highlights and light mid- tones have a chance to fully develop. This really isn't contrast control in the strictest sense as you are just not fully developing certain areas. If you want to control contrast with developers, you need to look at using the Beers formula paper developers. You can get about the same effect by using Dektol (high contrast) and Selectol Soft (low contrast). There are two ways to do this. The first is to mix the stock solutions together in the tray 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, etc. and then dilute with 2 parts water.

Obviously, if you mix 1 part Dektol to 3 parts Selectol Soft you will have a very low contrast developer; while if you mix it 1 part Selectol Soft to 3 parts Dektol, the contrast will be higher.

The second way to use the developers is in separate trays. Start the print in Selectol Soft and let the print fully develop until you ALMOST have blacks. Then rinse in a water bath, transfer to the Dektol and agitate the print vigorously. The blacks will "pop" up and you will have a very long scale print with solid blacks.

Finally, as to the hot developer. The best way to use this is straight Dektol at about 100 degrees F. Use a small piece of sponge, dip it in the hot developer and apply it locally to small areas that need to be darkened. Sort of like burning in an area, but using the developer instead. Works really well for areas that are too small to burn in easily.

-- steve (s.swinehart@worldnet.att.net), April 25, 2001.