Can anyone give me a detailed list of what I will need to start keeping bees? I am trying to get an idea of the cost of each hive. I have a local guy who is a 'Master Beekeeper' and he has new stuff for sale. I have joined the local 'Beekeeper's Assc.',read several books and talked to lots of beekeepers. But there is so many things in the books and catologs that I don't know where to begin. Thanks for any help!

-- Debbie T in N.C. (rdtyner@mindspring.com), February 26, 2001

Answers

most suppliers have a "starter kit",, suit, gloves, hat , veil,, smoker, hive tool. Basic hive kit,, Large super, medium super,, inner cover,, outer cover, 10 frames for each super, and bottom board. When I started,, I think it was close to 300 bucks,, then you have to get the bees.

-- Stan (sopal@net-port.com), February 26, 2001.

I started last year and I went to two beekeeping friends with a catalog and asked them to circle everything I needed to begin with one hive. They did that for me. I ordered the stuff (minus the bees). It basically was a starter kit mentioned in any catalog. Plus one more large super with frames and one shallow super with frames. Some catalogs offer these things already assembled, but I ordered disassembled. It is a good thing I had two friends, because I was absolutely perplexed on how to put the hive together once I got it. The directions were very limited. My friends came and showed me what to do. Depending on what type of climate you live in and how many hives you plan to start with will determine the extra supers you buy.

The starter kit is a good way to start. Just get that and start in the spring, then you will be more familiar with what you need and can buy more later.

Basically what was mentioned in the first answer is what you need. But for a hat, any hat will do that will hold the veil away from skin. You will understand what I mean when you get the veil. It has to be worn with a hat.

For a suit, forget those expensive bee suits they sell in catalogs, go to an industrial or worker's suiting store that sells coveralls and get one in white. I bought a simple lightweight white coverall in one of those stores for less then $20. Or just buy white jeans and a shirt. That is what I started with before finding the suit. Basically you just have to keep skin covered. White is the preferred color. It is believed that dark clothing aggravates the bees.

-- R. (thor610@yahoo.com), February 26, 2001.

Don't be deceived by the starter kits in the catalogs. They are not complete! You will need everything in the kit and then some. Here's a list of the minimum equipment, some of which you may be able to improvise: 1) Bottom board; 2) Two deep body hive boxes (9-5/8"); 3) Twenty deep body frames with foundation; 4) Two honey super boxes (6-5/8"); 5) Twenty honey super frames with foundation; 6) Hive cover; 7) Inner cover with syrup feeder; 8) Jars for feeding syrup; 9) Entrance reducer; 10) Hive tool (there are two styles commonly used, one that is basically a small pry bar/nail puller and one that is designed for lifting frames out: it has a J-hook on the end); 11) Hat, veil, gloves and jumpsuit (or layered clothing with elastic that overlaps - the veil is the only essential part); 12) C&H pure cane sugar for making syrup (if it doesn't say "pure cane sugar" do NOT give it your bees!); 13) Medications for disease and mite prevention: terramycin, fumidil B, Apistan or Coumaphos, and menthol crystals; 14) Queen excluder (optional); 15) Smoker (advisable, but optional); 16) Bees.

If you choose to make any of your own woodware be advised that spacing is critical to domestic beekeeping. This list will get you started and hopefully when it comes time to harvest you can borrow extracting equipment.

Four years ago I dropped over $400 to purchase everything I needed for one hive preassembled. (Time was of the essence - this was a spontaneous decision) You can save by doing the assembly yourself. If you do then you will also need some basic frame assembly tools: a jig to hold the frames and bow the end pieces while you string the wire and one of several tools to attach the foundation to the wires.

Depending on how your bees do their first year you may need more than two honey supers, but typically they will not be able to draw all new comb in the hive body and supers and fill both supers in one season.

Good luck. NOW is the time to get everything set up so you will be ready when your package of bees arrive in April.

-- Skip Walton (sundaycreek@gnrac.net), February 26, 2001.

Thank you all--I have printed this out. Now I can make a good list, that sounds like I know what I am doing :)! thank you again!

-- Debbie T in N.C. (rdtyner@mindspring.com), February 27, 2001.

geez Skip,, thata asking ALOT from your bees,, drawing 40 frames of wax, ,and filling them in 1 year. Where are you South America ??

-- Stan (sopal@net-port.com), February 27, 2001.

Debbie, You've got the answers you need. All I can add is that I use my Dad's old railroad coveralls. Where there are openings, I stick on a little duct tape. Any hat with a brim will hold the netting away from your skin. I've never been stung. Having said that- I'm sure it will now happen:Murphy's Law.

-- Peg (NW WI) (wildwoodfarms@hushmail.com), February 27, 2001.

Debbie,

You could wait a little while to get the extra honey supers, just don't wait TOO long. I agree with everybody else basically, but I would definitely recommend the duct tape! As with many other areas on the homestead, it can come in real handy to us beekeepers too! I also didn't spend money on a fancy suit. A veteran beekeeper suggested I go to a hardware supply store near me and buy a "used" white industrial type suit. It works just fine thabk you!

-- Glory (mornglorfarms@ncconnect.net), February 27, 2001.

Debbie, how handy are you? If you are VERY handy, you might could make the hives yourself. Beesource.com's plan page has a list of all sorts of plans for all sorts of beekeeping equipment (Their homepage has some good info, too). Or go to the Beekeeping in Top Bar Hives site for info and plans on Top Bar hives which are easier to build than standard Langstroth hives. But read the entire site before deciding to go that route ~ beekeeping in top bar hives is different than in Langstroth hives. Some people swear it's the only way to go and others swear they'll never do that again! The decision to use TBH or not also has a lot to do with whether or not you will be selling your honey commercially and whether you have a need for the wax (you'll have a lot of it). When you read the site and compare this method to using Langstroth hives, you'll understand the whys and the differences.

If you aren't a do-it-yourself kind of gal, then what the others suggested is right on. I would also suggest learning all you can about bees, their behaviour and pests/diseases before you get your bees. Some good sites are:

About.com's guide to bees and beekeeping ~ geared towards children, but still informative

Honey bee Biology ~ more intensive information about bees and why they do what they do

Beekeeping Glossary ~ great site, especially if you don't yet know what queenright means or what burr comb (or brace comb) is

Mid-Atlantic Apiculture beekeeping publications ~ Lots of information there on moving bees, handling bees, dividing colonies, etc. You'll need Adobe Acrobat reader and it might take a while for them to load, but it's worth it.

Good luck!

-- Wingnut (wingnut@moment.net), February 28, 2001.

first kil all of your bees

-- jerome hape (jerome_fern@start.com.au), October 02, 2001.