Here in the U.S., the Yellow Peril does not offer a liquid concentrate of Dektol. So I spend way too much time trying to dissolve this stuff. I've continued to do it because I like the print tone, but I'm near the end of my patience with it. Does anyone use a readily available liquid chemical (i.e., buy from B&H) which provides the same print tone and relative contrast of Dektol?

The paper I will be using is Ilford Multi IV FB. I used the RC version of this paper for the last year, and most of my prints were made with Dektol 1:1 or 1:2 for 2.5-3.5 minutes at contrast 2.5-3. (I have a beef against green blacks and have decided to switch back to fiber because I don't seem to get the RC paper to tone as well as the fiber papers.)

I've tried Ilford Multigrade in the past, and perhaps if I diluted it less and used longer times than recommended I could overcome the "weakness" I felt it imparted --- it seemed to have a lower reduction potential than Dektol when I used it. What about Agfa Neutol or Ilford Universal?

Ordinarily I'd just mix my own chemicals, but with the cost of a stirring hot plate these days significantly above a nice enlarging lens or a real easel, I don't think its much of an option for us poor folks. Thanks in advance...

-- John O'Connell (boywonderiloveyou@hotmail.com), December 09, 2000

Answers

I recently tried Ethol LPD paper developer, and it works fine. It dissolves easily in 90F water. However, for years I've used Dektol with MG paper by dissolving small amounts of powder sufficient to make up the 16 or 32 oz of solution I need. Early on, I measured a whole packet of Dektol powder in a graduated cylinder and from there calculated the ml of powder needed for small volumes - e.g., 37 ml of powder makes 32 oz of solution. The powder dissolves well in 70F water. I cut off the top corner of the packet and roll the packet down as it empties, holding it closed with a clothespin. The powder stays white for a long time.

-- Keith Nichols (knichols@iopener.net), December 09, 2000.

I've used Kodak Polymax T (a liquid concentrate available from B&H) on Multigrade IV FB, and found the prints indistinguishable from those processed in Dektol.

-- Sal Santamaura (bc_hill@qwestinternet.net), December 09, 2000.

A couple of alternatives are Kodak Polymax (the old Ektaflo) and Ethol LPD in liquid concentrate form.

-- John Hicks (jbh@magicnet.net), December 09, 2000.

I used Dektol for a long time with MGIVFB and recently switched to Agfa Neutol WA, which gives much better blacks and happens to come in a liquid concentrate.

-- David Goldfarb (dgoldfarb@barnard.edu), December 09, 2000.

From a print tone standpoint, I really like Ansco 130 avail from the photographers formulary (Developer 130) It comes as powder but is fairly easy to mix, just microwave the water. The great thing is the working solution really does have a tray life of two months, so you really don't have to do the mixing thing that often.

-- Robert W Boyer (rboyer@mindspring.com), December 09, 2000.

I have been using Sprint chemistry for years, and really like it. I also print on MG IV. It mixes 1:9, you can buy the stuff in liter or gallon. The gallon comes in a cardboard cube, you buy a spigot for it, and it is an extremely handy and easy way to mix your chemicals. B&H carries it. It is called Sprint Developer.

chris

-- Christian Harkness (chris.harkness@eudoramail.com), December 10, 2000.

The trick to mixing dektol is to use hot water, as hot as will come out of your faucet. Kodak says to use 90 degree water assuming that you will dilute it right away for printing, if the stock is at 160 degrees there is no way to get it to 68 degrees short of using ice. I mix my stock a day in advance and use very hot water and it dissolves very quickly.

-- Jeff White (jeff@jeffsphotos.com), December 10, 2000.

And why not use ice? I've done it when I've run out of D-76 in the middle of a big batch of film processing. In that situation, I'll mix about 3/4 or 4/5 of the total volume with hot water as recommended (something like 130F), mix until dissolved, top it off with ice cubes, and mix until they are dissolved.

-- David Goldfarb (dgoldfarb@barnard.edu), December 10, 2000.

David, you can use ice. I would prefer to plan ahead. Today I spent seven hours on a single print, the time flew. I am glad that there wasn't an additional half hour mixing chemicals.

-- Jeff White (jeff@jeffsphotos.com), December 10, 2000.

LPD mixes easily and since it will last for 6+ months (longer with the replenishment method), mixing is a seldom event. LPD is my favorite because it does not irritate my hands. Dektol and Ilford Universal do and almost stopped my darkroom work!

-- Gene Crumpler (nikonguy@worldnet.att.net), December 11, 2000.

I recently tried Dektol and Ilford liquid paper developer side by side to see what happened. I don't think I could tell any difference. If there is, it is not enough to ever know about. I used both trays the same day, back and forth, and never could tell. Ilford's developer is in the red bottle. I did this for the same reason, Dektol doesn't have a good shelf life. I may consider that idea of splitting the gallon pouch into several smaller groups, though. Maybe small plastic bottles could hold the right amount of powder each without air inside.

-- E.L. (elperdido65@hotmail.com), December 11, 2000.

Luminos distributes a very nice liquid concentrate developer for VC papers; I believe it's actually made by FotoSpeed. Comes in two sizes (liter/quart and 5-liter/gallon, or something like that) and is very economical - mixes 9 to 1. It develops everything we've run through at it beautifully. Try Luminos' own website or B&H for more info...

-- Michael Goldfarb (mgoldfar@mobius-inc.com), December 11, 2000.

I didn't mean to imply that it isn't better to mix sufficient chemistry in advance, but if one is short on storage space (the ever-present New York condition, alas) ice is your friend.

-- David Goldfarb (dgoldfarb@barnard.edu), December 12, 2000.

Several years ago I took a printing workshop taught by George Tice at ICP. He introduced me to the developer he's used for years, Ektaflo type 2. Comes as liquid concentrate in a cube that shrinks as you use it, in a box, like the wine in a box. It is intended for warmtone papers, but is great for cold also...seems to open up the shadows just a little easier than Dektol. BTW, George is a wonderful printer and excellent teacher.

-- John Sarsgard (sarsgard@yahoo.com), December 12, 2000.

One simple way of dealing with Dektol is to mix 1 oz of the powder in 64 ounces of water to make a working solution. I start with 20 or so ounces of hot water & mix it in. It dissolves quickly this way. Then I pour in cold water to make the total while bringing the procesing solution down to temperature for use. I usually mix 4 ounces per 3 72 ounce containers, the first being hot & the others cold. This works well for the papers I use. It comes out to about an ounce and a third (using a liquid beaker to measure the dry chemical) per 72 ounce container the way I mix. I do take it from the 5 gallon dry powder bag rather than the one gallon bag. I use enough that I go through one or more each month so it doesn't get oxidized & brown before use.

-- Dan Smith (shooter@brigham.net), December 14, 2000.

I have always heard that dektol powder should not be divided in that the different components are not evenly mixed throughout the container---Dan have you ever noticed anything unusual when mixing this way as opposed to mixing the entire contents? anyone else heard of this one way or the other??

-- mark lindsey (lindseygraves@msn.com), December 16, 2000.

I have been led to believe (from a number of credible sources)that Kodak Polymax paper developer IS a liquid version of Dektol. I have used it in place of Dektol with Ilford Multigrade Fiber paper for several years and can detect no difference from Dektol. For me a big advantage of the Polymax liquid is the convenience of the 1:9 part dilution.

-- Bill Osterman (boster33@aol.com), December 23, 2000.