Hi, I once read about adding some substance to my developper to getter a warmer tone on my prints. I think it was bromide but am not sure... can somebody confirm/correct this and give me an idea about concentration? I'm using Agfa Neutol developper. Thanks

-- Gert Raskin (gert.raskin@med.kuleuven.ac.be), May 17, 2000

Answers

Bromide is usually added as a restrainer to produce clean high values, but does have the effect of making the print tone warmer-- actually, it makes it rather greenish, but this changes to a warm purple-brown after selenium toning. The effect depends a great deal on the paper one is using. Bromide also reduces effective paper speed. I would recommend adding one to two grams to your developer and see if you like the results. You can add more, but at some point you will have difficulty getting detail in the high values. You might also consider trying Ansel's Ansco 130 Variant--he eliminated the hydroquinone from the formula and reduced the amount of sulfite, so it gives a warmer print tone and has somewhat less contrast.

-- Ed Buffaloe (edbuffaloe@unblinkingeye.com), May 17, 2000.

Why not use Neutol WA, which is a warm tone developer?

-- Thomas Wollstein (thomas_wollstein@web.de), May 18, 2000.

Ethol LPD is another great developer. Can go from cold tones (used straight) to warm tones (used diluted 1:4 or 1:6) and it lasts!

-- Scott Walton (scotlynn@shore.net), May 18, 2000.

Agfa Multicontrast Classic fiber paper and Neutol WA make a great pair IMHO.

You can get slightly warm tones, or you can tone the stuff and get a cool reddish brown.

-- Pete Su (psu_13@yahoo.com), May 20, 2000.

What is the meaning of IMHO ?

Thank you

-- Lemos Pinto (lemospinto@netcabo.pt), May 20, 2000.

IMHO translates to "In my honest opinion" Scott

-- Scott Walton (scotlynn@shore.net), May 26, 2000.

That's funny. I always thought it was, "In My Humble Opinion", I guess there's no authorative source for this (probably better that way!)

-- Bill Noll (bill@neoview.com), May 26, 2000.

I use Edwal Platinum II for warm tones with Polymax Fine Art (F & N surfaces). I haven't tried the C surface yet, but it is going to be my next box of 11X14, I'll post how it works out.

-- Robert Orofino (rorofino@iopener.net), May 29, 2000.