I have 3 peach trees one pear two aplles and 6 I don't know what they are(didn't produce anything last year planted by the last owner ) I have never pruned fruit trees. I do know you don't want branches from near the ground. I am real skitish about removeing anything . Help. And while I am here anyone have a plan for a homemade fruit press. Just can't afford the one in Lehmans.

-- Becky (Joel681@webtv.net), April 11, 2000

Answers

Becky Iwas skitish to but with my wifes help and my books it worked real well to make it simple cut back anything growing down or back in to the tree (that is for stone fruit ) not sure about your pear i did and my plum and apricot look good. hope this helps Shaun

-- shaun cornish (shaun-terri@juno.com), April 11, 2000.

Becky, the peach should be pruned to a bowl shape while the pear and apples are pruned with what is called a central leader. The extension service has some excellent booklets out there and as Shaun said, some great books. If you are lucky, you have a Master Gardener in your county who can provide more help than I can on this forum. The MG's are trained by Extension specialists in all phases of gardening and to "pay" their tuition they work as volunteers in various capacities. Good luck. Be sure you learn about the BRANCH COLLAR as it's very important to place your cuts relative to it for quick healing. Again good luck.

Marilyn

-- marilyn (rainbow@ktis.net), April 11, 2000.

There are a number of good books, and I suggest you get one. If you have difficulty, let me know and I'll help. I will say that you may have missed "the window" on the proper time to prune. Here in Maine I figure President's Day, although it can be later. If the trees have started to bud out, I'd wait 'till next year. If they have been neglected for any amount of time, it may take more than one year to do the job properly. For starters, cut out any branches that interfere with one another (one of them). Any "water spouts" ie. suckers, that head straight up, too. Then you can get fancier and try to shape the tree the next year. Good luck!

-- Brad (homefixer@mix-net.net), April 11, 2000.

I don't know for sure, but I think Countryside or Backwoods home ran an article on bringing back old fruit trees around December or January of 1998. I'll keep looking through what I have but maybe someone else could check their back issues? We were interested ina peice of land that had fruti trees on it and opted not to go for it. But I do remember reading the article carefully at the time. Hope we can find it for you. Jennifer

-- Jennifer (jkmills@freewwweb.com), April 11, 2000.

If you'll wait for me--I'll show you. I realize you don't see me much anymore but "talking to each other via the countryside forum" That is funny ! It is too late to prune after they are buding--wait till next year ! Love--your husband

-- Joel Rosen (Joel^81@webtv.net), April 12, 2000.

Hey Joel, you are one lucky guy. I wish i could get my better half interested in prunning anything, especially the fruit trees. But I've got to disagree with you on timing, I prune right up till August and start again in March. I'm in S. Ohio and I only stop in August to avoid possible winter damage. Just my 2 cents woth.

Regards,

Bob

-- Robert (STBARB@usa.net), April 12, 2000.

air circulation is really important. therefore make sure you don't have too many branches all heading out the same way. also remove any branches that cross. on older trees that haven't been pruned in awhile, it may take a couple of years of pruning to get them back in shape. all suckers must be removed(anything growing out of the base of the trees.remember the tree will fill up with leaves that aren't there right now, so try to visualize the spacing that each branch requires. i grew up on an apple farm. my great uncle who raised the apples pruned any branches that were damaged at any time of the year. that goes also for trees that bushed out and were too conjested.take care of it when you see it. even if you lose buds from pruning this year, if you are making the tree healthy for a lifetime then it's worth it.i use the rule of three. three side branches off each of the main branches is sufficient for the tree to supply enough strength to without over taxing the tree. it also makes for branches that are strong enough to handle the weight of the fruit. laura

-- laura cavallari (ladygoat13@aol.com), April 12, 2000.

Hi, Just thought I would add to the above postings by saying be sure to paint all of the cuts with tree paint so the bugs will not infest the new cuts.(not the twig type cut, but cuts that are bigger)

Beth (NC)

-- Beth (NC) (craig@icu2.net), April 18, 2000.

A simple booklet by R.Sanford Martin...HOW TO PRUNE FRUIT TREES was a great help to us...Published by the author at 10535 Las Lunitas Ave. Tujunga, Calif. 91042. Ours is an old issue...but I doubt if the principles and methods have changed that much. The book was designed for the homeowner...not a commercial orchardist and it explains the process in simple terms. It was a real help to us...as first time "pruners".

-- blake stretton (stretton@saber.net), April 18, 2000.

Howdy ho http://freespace.virgin.net/roger.simmonds/press.htm Hope this helps someone as much as it helped me!!!!

-- tom procter (thepistachiokid@aol.com), August 28, 2001.