Hi everyone, I figured I'd ask this before the world blows up at midnight...

After having recently considered amidol to help with shadow detail (ISO) in my PMK negs, I thought, if I'm going to buy it anyways, I might consider using it for my prints.

I suppose I should consider the Weston formula first, since I can mix it myself. I usually use Dektol and Selectol Soft and their variants out of Adams' The Negative. I shoot people; clothes are important to value III-ish (this week...), and I like a deep DMax.

For paper, I'm open to using anything warmtoned, graded or VC, but my regular paper is Ilford WT glossy fibre (which I'm findingh isn't warm enough untoned...but oh well...).

I would like to know how amidol works with Ektalure as well, since I am hoping to use this combo for a show's worth of Ektalure-selenium-tea-toned prints.

I guess I'm just asking for basic experience with amidol for prints. Thanks all. shawn

OH YES: how much should I purchase? I shoot about 25-50 rolls of film/month, and I go through probably 200 sheets of paper, 8x10 to 11x14, but I'm also planning on printing some 16x20" since I'm medium format now...I'm going to buy from PF if I can't find a Toronto dealer.

-- shawn gibson (SeeInside@hotmail.com), December 31, 1999

Answers

I have used amidol off and on for years--it gives rather greenish tones on chloride papers, but these papers typically take toning very well (some people even like the green tone). The primary disadvantage of amidol is that it oxidizes rapidly and therefore cannot be re- used. I always mix everything except the amidol the night before my printing session, then add the amidol right before I print. (Also, if the solution is hot, the amidol will give off noxious fumes when mixed, so be careful!) The second disadvantage of amidol is that it stains everything it touches--fingers, tongs, trays. I always use tongs or gloves with it to avoid blackened fingernails, and I never turn the prints face down in the tray, as they can pick up stains off the bottom.

That said, amidol is one of my two favorite developing agents for paper (the other being glycin). Amidol is one of the few developing agents that remains active in a slightly acidic environment. Edward Weston knew this and often added citric acid to his formula to reduce oxidation and cut down on the staining action. My favorite formula is one published by Samuel Fein--it calls for citric acid and uses benzotriazole as a restrainer instead of potassium bromide, so Fein's formula tends to reduce the green hue caused by bromide. Fein's formula is available on my website at Unblinkingeye.com in the article on mixing developers.

I would not buy more than 100 grams of amidol at a time, as it breaks down fairly quickly. When fresh, it is a fluffy white powder. As it ages it turns first grey, then black. Once it turns black it doesn't dissolve properly. Photographer's Formulary is the only source I know for amidol, and their product has been quite fresh the last few times I have purchased it.

-- (edbuffaloe@unblinkingeye.com), January 03, 2000.

Thanks ed,

I'll order 100g of it. I actually hope it does leave a green colour on untoned prints, if it's olive-like. I also want to say I read a lot of stuff on your site in the summer, and it taught me a lot--a LOT. I'll start with your recommended concoction with the amidol. Thanks again. shawn

-- shawn gibson (SeeInsideForever@yahoo.com), January 03, 2000.

Peckham's Amidol formula will keep for 2 weeks in solution, and I have never noticed a green tinge to my prints, using Azo and Ektalure. I use the brush developing technique. The formula is found in Dignan's 150 B/W Formula's. Pat

-- pat j. krentz (krentz@cci-29palms.com), January 10, 2000.

By the brush developing technique, do you mean something similar to what Adams remarks of in The Print? 2 weeks is a long time, wow...I'll be ordering on Friday. Thanks. shawn

-- shawn gibson (SeeInsideForever@yahoo.com), January 10, 2000.

I don't think Adam's ever used a brush to develope a print, What I mean is; get a 3-4 inch soft natural fiber brush, soak it in water and then when you are ready to develope a print (test strip) place the paper into the developer, hold it down with a tong on the border, and brush slowly up and down on the print, you will have a much deeper and more through development, if you want to see the difference do one your regular way and then do one with the brush. When you make Peckhams Amidol be sure to use distilled water.

-- pat j. krentz (krentz@cci-29palms.com), January 10, 2000.