I just came across this sight and realize I've come to a place with alot of knowledgable people. Thank god for me!

I am a amature photographer who's been doing ALOT of reading but oddly (hopefully not the way I think) cannot find much that is specific about the following questions (I realize these are matters of opinion but still I've found answers scarce...). I want to specialize in black and white portraiture and black and white photojournalistic wedding coverage. These are the points I get stumped on:

Question 1: Is the exposure lattitude smaller for T-MAX films than say Tri-X or Ilford films at the 100, 200, and 400 levels?

Question 2: If I do my own processing and printing will I have an advantage with one over another?

Question 3: Should I invest in a background for engagement photos, or can I get great results on location even though I live in a four seasons area of the county?

Question 4: Although Ilford claims archival quality of the their RC papers, should I go with fibre based?

Question 5: How do I dry fibre based papers? Do I need a special drying tool if I want them to be glossy or lay flat?

Question 6: What do you think the best selling points of black and white portraiture and wedding photography are to possible customers?

Question 7: Where do I go to get an authoritative book on all the special techniques to use with B/W film, chemicals, development...etc.

Thanks, Dan

-- Dan Tyler (tyler.dan@worldnet.att.net), November 08, 1999

Answers

1) Not significantly. 2) Yes. 3) Get a backdrop. 4) RC is not archival; FB is far superior, both in its appearance and its archival qualities. 5) Hang them on a line, flatten overnight under a heavy book. However, they will never be as flat as RC prints. In order to make FB prints glossy they have to be ferrotyped, an obsolete and very problematical technique. 6) No opinion. 7) The Ansel Adams basic photo series will get you started.

-- Peter Hughes (leonine@redshift.com), November 08, 1999.

> Question 1: Is the exposure lattitude smaller for T-MAX films

There's no such thing as exposure latitude. There's only the proper exposure for your interpretation of the subject.

> Question 2: If I do my own processing and printing will I have an advantage with one over another?

If you're going to be sloppy with technique then a traditional film such as TX, PX, HP5+ etc in D-76 1:1 will be more forgiving of errors than the newer films. But there's no valid excuse for letting the process get that far out of control.

> Question 3: Should I invest in a background for engagement photos

Get the background.

> Question 4: Although Ilford claims archival quality of the their RC papers, should I go with fibre based?

Properly processed and toned RC prints may be as archival as comparable FB prints; RC and "proper processing" just hasn't been around long enough to know for sure.

There have been problems with RC paper in the past; whether that's been resolved or not I don't know. RC prints must be toned or treated in Agfa Sistan to resist outgassing of the titanium dioxide brightener if they're on display in a relatively sealed frame.

In fact, no print has been properly processed unless it's received at least light protective toning in selenium toner or a sulfiding toner.

A properly processed RC print will be around lots longer than an insuffiently-washed FB print, and insufficient/improper washing is very common.

> Question 5: How do I dry fibre based papers? Do I need a special drying tool if I want them to be glossy or lay flat?

Hang them on plastic clothespins, then flatten them in a drymount press or under a pile of books for a few days. If you want glossy you'll have to use ferrotype tins or a dryer; a good glossy finish is very difficult to consistent achieve.

> Question 6: What do you think the best selling points of black and white portraiture and wedding photography are to possible customers?

One of the main selling points should be that the print will be around long enough to be passed down to great-grandchildren etc...providing you take care that it's processed and protected as best you can.

> Question 7: Where do I go to get an authoritative

_Basic Photography_ and _Beyond Basic Photography_, both by Henry Horenstein.

_The Negative_ and _The Print_, both by Ansel Adams.

...and to get deeper...

_Beyond the Zone System_ by Phil Davis

_Post Exposure_ by Ctein

_Controls in Black and White Photography_ by Richard Henry

-- John Hicks / John's Camera Shop (jbh@magicnet.net), November 09, 1999.

Dan, the two previous posts are by very knowledgeable photograpers and I would be inclined to follow their advice. However, since I am under the impression that yu are fairly new to B&W let me add a couple of thoughts. Pick a film such as T-Max or Ilford's Delta and stick with it for a while until you learn its characteristics. (I'd go with the l00 for your purposes.) Be consistent and meticulous in your processing. If you are not an experienced printer, RC is fine for practice and it may be best if you furnish a print for a newpaper photograph. For your customers don't use anything less than archivally processed fiber! Air dryed glossy (fiber) is glossy enough. I haven't used a ferrotype tin in years and would avoid it like the plague. Ditto on the Horenstein books. Their inexpensive and easy to read.

-- Joe Miller (jmmiller@poka.com), November 09, 1999.

As I agree that the answers above are comprehensive I will only add my two sense about an authoritative book; Bruce Barnbaum - The Art of Photography. Not only is it technically informative, it also is beautifully written, touching on many of the ecstatic aspects of photography. In fact its sub-title is "An Approach to Personal Expression".

-- Bart (ktleyed@home.com), November 22, 1999.