When drymounting 16x20 FB prints I am having a problem with the edges popping up after being removed from the drymount press. After much experimentation with different drymount tissues, drymount press tempatures and length of time in the press, I finally discovered that if I quickly press down the edges of the print all around (using a cover sheet of course) after removing from the press but before it has cooled, the problem is solved. However, this is a pain! I never had this problem with 11x14 prints and the only difference is that I could mount 11x14's all at once and with 16x20's I have to press in two sections because the print won't fit in the press all at once. I believe the problem is that during processing the edges of the print expand more than the center and they stay this way even after the print is dry and flattened in the press, and this causes the edges to buckle upward, which they do quickly after the print is removed from the press. There is further confirmation because when I experimented with cutting off about 1 1/2 inches all around a work print and mounting it there was no problem. What I don't understand is why it never happened with 11x14's. In case its relevant I'm using Oriental G-2 or G-3, Seal MT5 tissue, a Seal Commercial 210 press, and Light Impressions Westminster Rag Board. Any insight would be appreciated.

-- J.L. Kennedy (jlkennedy@qnet.com), September 09, 1999

Answers

J.L.,

I often use the same materials, and experienced similar problems when starting out.

I've found that if you take the mounted print, immediately after removing it from the mounting press, and place a weighted, flat surface on it for about ten to fifteen minutes, to maintain even pressure on the print/mounting board while it cools down, the corners/edges of the FB print will not peel away from the board. It also prevents the entire mounting board from curling as it cools.

I place the freshly mounted print, face down, on a perfectly clean, dust/grit-free surface (you don't want to ruin the print surface by embossing it with something now), usually against of another piece of mounting board of the same size, or larger. I then place a large, flat weight on top till it cools; a clean, flat section of 3/4" plywood, large enough to cover your entire mount board, weighted with a few heavy books on top, works fine.

Good luck. Hope this helps. Sergio.

-- Sergio Ortega (s.ortega@worldnet.att.net), September 09, 1999.

Light impressions make a great "flate plate" that is great. it is white enamel-finished 21 X 17. Weight is very important while the tissue is still warm. Perhaps the press is not as hot at the extreme edges which would certainly cause a problem

-- ann clancy (aclancy@Mediaone.com), September 10, 1999.

A properly mounted print should be able to take a rather severe bend without popping off, you should continue to place print in press for about 30sec to 1 min until you get a mount that does not pop off. The reason your larger print pops off is because it does not get an even amount of heat from the mounter. The heat press is hotter in the middle than at the edges so the mounting temp is uneven, get several mounting boards and place them above the print to help even the temp, this will cause your overall time to go up, but the mounting will be much more even.

-- mark lindsey (lindseygraves@msn.com), September 12, 1999.

Another thing that can sometimes cause this problem is storing your mount boards in an environment that is too humid. You can reduce the humidity somewhat by placing the board in the hot press for a minute or two before you mount the print on it. This helps drive out some of the moisture.

-- Ed Buffaloe (edbuffaloe@unblinkingeye.com), September 13, 1999.

Ed;

Excellent point. In addition to the mounting board, also dry the print in the press for a minute or so before attaching the dry mount tissue. This is in A.A's "The Print"

-- Gene Crumpler (nikonguy@worldnet.att.net), September 14, 1999.