Amidol Developers

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Does anyone have experience with Amidol developers. I'm planning to experiment with some and other than needing to use bromide papers I'm not sure what to expect.

Thanks

-- Kevin Kemner (kkemner@tateandsnyder.com), August 09, 1999

Answers

Amidol is a finicky and rather expensive developer to use. When I was in my Obsessive-Compulsive developer stage (before I took very many good pictures, and was trying to compensate for that lack by using exotic materials), I actually used it as a one-shot, since adding a preservative significantly diminishes its unique tonal qualities. After all is said and done, I'm not sure that Amidol is really worth the effort and expense, since for every print I got that was (marginally) enhanced by it, I got another that was compromised. Its soft tonal scale can be gotten with a standard MQ developer such as Selectol or Ektonol 2. And unless you measure your D-Max on a densitometer (as I used to do!), I doubt whether youll really notice the difference in the blacks. The selection of paper and toner will affect the final print far more than using Amidol. Lets hear from others on this topic. http://www.ravenvision.com/rvapeter.htm

-- Peter Hughes (leonine@redshift.com), August 09, 1999.

I don't use Amidol as I simply can't affor it but you might go to http://www.michaeland paula.com and look under the Technical and Writings headings.

I think that Azo/Amidol was a recent topic of discussion on the L.F. Q&A forum as well with different formulas extant. Try contacting THe Photographers Formulary, I believe they are on line. They have raw Amidol as well as several pre-mixed formulas

-- Sean yates (yatescats@yahoo.com), August 12, 1999.


I love Amidol developers and have experimented with most of the well- known formulas, and a few that are pretty obscure. Edward Weston used Amidol most of his life, as did his son Brett. I recommend you try the Fein's Amidol formula, which you can find on my site at http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Developers/Formulas/formulas.htm. It uses benzotriazole instead of potassium bromide as a restrainer. Amidol is the only developing agent that can work in a slightly acid environment, and because Amidol oxidizes rapidly it is often recommended that you add a small quantity of citric acid to prevent stains. Fein's formula includes citric acid, as does Weston's. Weston's formula for Amidol can be found in Adams' book THE PRINT.

-- Ed Buffaloe (edbuffaloe@unblinkingeye.com), August 14, 1999.

Kevin & Ed, the best Amidol formula I have ever used is Peckham's Amidol which is found in Dignan's 150 B/W Formula's, it will keep for two weeks in a tightly sealed brown bottle,(the only kind I use) and will develope (10) 8x10 prints using 3-5 minute brush development, that is with Azo papers, I have not tried it with VC papers, it also works well with bromide papers as has been pointed out. I have used Dekto and Zone VI and Selecttol soft developers and I can see the difference in the prints in the deep rich blacks that amidol produces compared to another print of the same negative in a different developer, all I can suggest is to work with each one and see which works best for you. Amidol has my vote over any other, regardless of cost, if I am going to take the time and effort to make a print I want the best I can get and for me that means Amidol. Pat

-- pat j. krentz (krentz@cci-29palms.com), August 15, 1999.

I tryed using amidol developer and must say that when I was able to get it to work the results were fabulous, but it was just too finicky for my printing style. I searched and found something that runs a close second which is glycin-based developer, particularly Ansco 130 (Darkroom Cookbook) The Photographers formulary has this in kit form. It is a fast working, durable, high capacity developer that works with almost all modern emulsions producing wonderful deep rich blacke and crip tonal seperation. I have used it with Agfa, Forte, Ilford and Kodak fiber papers with good results.

-- Les Warren (eyeseales@netscape.net), September 23, 1999.


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