Hello!

I have an older set of Spotone photo retouching dyes (#0,1,2,3). The mixing instructions are out of date for many current papers.

1. Does anyone know where I can get an up to date set of mixing instructions? ( I am currently using Agfa MC classic paper )

2. Are older bottles of the dyes OK to use for retouching? ( mine are at least 12 to 15 years old )

Thanks to all!!

-- Dan Stanley (speedstr@in.net), July 30, 1999

Answers

you don't need a set of mixing instructions. Just mix to taste and apply. James

-- james (james_mickelson@hotmail.com), July 31, 1999.

Mine are 41 years old and still going strong. You thik your instructions are out of date, mine still have Ansco papers on them. lots of luck

-- Larrye Edye (WA4GMS@webtv.net), July 31, 1999.

Dan;

Spottone doesn't seem to age. Mine are about 20 years old and the bottles periodically dry out. I just fill then with some water and shake. They are ready to go for another several years!

-- Gene Crumpler (nikonguy@worldnet.att.net), August 02, 1999.

A master printer taught me a little trick. Old spottone is the best, especially if it dried out. If it hasn't dried out put a drop in a watercoor tray or a film cap and let it dry. Then, take your brush, and wet it on your tongue...yes, your tongue! Touch the wet brush to the dry spottone and take up some dye on the brush and test it on a white piece of paper.

Point is, it seems spottone goes on the print better when a bit on the dry side. There also seems to be something about saliva that make the dyes stick better...just don't do this after drinking grape juice!

Try it, it works! Also, use a 000 brush and dab the dyes on the spot your retouching..don't paint them.

After a while you can actually judge how much saliva is needed just by how the brush feels on your tongue.

-- Todd Frederick (fredrick@hotcity.com), August 08, 1999.

I used to wet the brush with my tongue until someone told me that spotting dyes were carcinogenic. Don't know if it's true, but I've used water ever since. I put a little circle of each color on the back of a piece of photo paper and let it dry. The trick with spotting is to get the consistency right for what you are trying to do. Too much water and the dye will spread over a larger area and be fairly transparent. Less water and the dye will be darker, but easier to apply to a small area. The pressure on the brush tip also affects density. I don't like 000 brushes. I use one a little larger and of high quality that can form a good tip. The bristles hold more so you don't have to remix as often, which can be a pain.

-- Peter Korsborn (korsborn@gte.net), August 10, 1999.

I've found another trick to controlling spotting and speed the process up a bit. Along with using a 000 brush and a dryed mix of spotone, I use a larger brush with a beaker of clear water to go over spotted areas to get exact blending. The spot tone will disperse out of the emulsion into the clear water and allow an even match, if you over spot. This allows some what more aggressive spotting and then you can quickly lighen the spotted area back up until an exact match is achieved. Then quickly remove the excess water. This works extremely well for long scratches and fibers, which are (at least for me)difficult to spot.

-- Gene Crumpler (nikonguy@worldnet.att.net), August 10, 1999.

The version of the story that I heard is that Spotone collects in the liver. I can think of several more enjoyable ways of abusing my liver - Johnny Walker, Dewars, etc.

Seriously, its actually much easier to use Spotone when it is dry. I mix a few drops of the appropriate colors in a small makeup tray and allow it to dry. Then I use this like dried watercolor paint - moisten a brush and pick up a bit of color, use a sheet of white plastic as a pallette, etc. Adding a few drops of PhotoFlo to the water seems to help.

-- Louie Powell (ljpowel@banet.net), September 07, 1999.