Nikon camera's,

I knew absoluely nothing 1 year ago about photography or camera's, but knew that I wanted a 34mm SLR. I went to a Ritz photo shop and the main 2 camera's there that seemed to fit my needs and budger were the N6006 and the N50. One salesperson told me the N6006 was better, the next day I came back to buy it and another sales person told me the autofocus was better with the N50. (I've since found out that both use the same old AM200 sensor.)

I guess I was dazzled by the "Programed" modes. They actually servered their purpose as I didn't screw up too many photo's by using the push button programs. But now I realize that I need a more sophisticated camera. I feel like the N50 is really just a point and shoot camera with changeable lenes. It doesn't even have red-eye reduction! It's embarrassing to show people the photo I took of them with my "$500.00" camera outfit and they still have red-eye.

Here's where I need help. Should I move up to the N70, or the N6006, or what's the N8008? and what's the difference between that and the N8008s, what does that "s" stand for? I've compared some features of the N70 and N90 and the Canon Elan IIe, and the Canon has more features than the N90, but at a price at or just under the N70. I have a cheapo 28-80mm f/4-5.6 Quantaray zoom lenes that should fit the Canon, but I really like the reputation and supposed reslae value of the Nikon. Help! Where do I go next? Is mirror lockup really that great? What about mulitple exposures? Do I need DOF preview.

I mainly shoot in existing light situations. My daughter is in competitive dance and I took photo's inside of auditoriums and theatres where the lights are dimmed. Also want to do Macro and Astro photography. Want to spend up to $400-500 for a body.

Kevin Lowman

-- Kevin Lowman (kevin.lowman@mci.com and k.lowman@cwix.com), April 05, 1999

Answers

Kevin, You've got a lot of questions here and I think you'll be well served to spend a lot of time reading many posts and articles on photo.net. An N6006 would have been a better choice for you a year ago, but with your budget right now, I'd advise you put your money into some higher quality lenses rather than worrying about the camera body. Check with a good used dealer about trading your N50 for an N70. Your Quantaray with Nikon mount won't fit a Canon. Mirror lock-up is great, you're a long way from learning to use it. Red-eye can happen with any camera if the flash is too close to the lens. Any built-in flash is probably going to have red-eye problems. Professionals use auxiliary flashes on brackets above the camera. For your inside auditorium and theater photos, check out a used 50 mm 1.8 or 85 mm 1.8 prime. 50s can be had for $65 or less; 85s for $200 or so. Use fast film such as Fuji 800 or 1600. Have a good lab correct for color balance. Check into classes through a photo store or community college. Nikon and Canon are both great systems. Choose one and plan to stick with it. Good luck.

-- Rick Moore (rmoore@hepn.com), April 05, 1999.

There are a lot of used N90s around now as people trade up to the F100- -one of them might offer you the best value.

-- Ron Goodman (rgoodman@albany.net), April 05, 1999.

Red eye can be cheaply fixed with a new flash. My N6006 has horrible red-eye with the built in flash. I got a used SB-20 for $150 and it makes a world of difference.

The big difference between the N6006 and the N50 (and the N60 which replaced the N50) is that the N6006 can meter with manual focus (AI, AI'd & AIS) Nikkor lenses. The N50 can mount them but you lose the meter. The N6006 has a slightly better built in flash (it covers a wider angle) and can accept a cable release (great for tripod work).

The N70 has better autofocus, and the "D" flash technology which is great when your subject is off-center. Like the N6006 is can take a cable release (but it's a more expensive electronic one), but it has a faster max shutter speed of 1/4000 sec.

The N8008 has the same AF sensor and flash metering system (but no built-in flash) that the N50 and N6006 but it also has DOF preview, multiple exposure, a top shutter speed of 1/8000 sec and it x-synchs at 1/250 sec. It's also got a better viewfinder and can take all kinds of nifty accessories (data backs, etc.). The N8008s has a spot-meter (like the N70 and N6006) and slightly better AF (but still not as good as the N70.

There are more differences between these cameras, but instead of going into more detail, let me suggest that you get a flash first. If you get an SB-27 you'll be able to take full advantage of the flash system of any of these cameras, and you'll have something better than any of the built-in flashes. If you want to be able to take advantage of the flash metering system on the N70 (and N90, N90s, F100 and F5) you'll want to get at least an SB-25, SB-26, SB-27 or SB-28 (the SB-27 has the lowest list price, but you may be able to find a cheaper yet more powerful SB-25 on the used market).

-- Geoffrey S. Kane (grendel@pgh.nauticom.net), April 05, 1999.

Thanks!

To everyone who posted, esp. Geoffery who gave a very detailed description of the camera's. I believe I'm down to between an N70 and and N8008. The N8008 has more seems to have more "nifty" things like multiple exposures, etc ... but the N70 has a beter focus and metering system. Until I buy one, though I think I'll take the suggestions to get a speedlight flash and a faster lens and see if I can make do with that.

Thanks again.

-- Kevin Lowman (k.lowman@cwix.com), April 06, 1999.

The N70 will drive the new Silent Wave lenses, the N50, N60, 6006, 8008 won't. If you think you might be purchasing an AF-S lens in the future then you will want to have a body that will drive it.

-- Stan McManus (stanshooter@yahoo.com), April 06, 1999.

AF-s lens?

Okay, gotta ask. Can someone explain what all the different lenes are and what the letters mean? I know tha AF means auto focus and D means it sends Distance to subject info to the metering system, but what are AF-I, and AF-E, and AF-S, and AI? , etc ...

Kevin

-- Kevin Lowman (k.lowman@cwix.com), April 06, 1999.

You might consider spending a little more, there certainly will be a lot of people trading in their F90x (N90s) for the new F100, as mentioned above. I've been shooting my son at school plays and events under similar circumstances as you describe for the past year with an F90x, AF-I 80-200f2.8(collar version), and SB-28 using TTL on Fuji Reala 100 with stunning results. All should be available second hand. With the inclusion of a light monopod it's a great set-up. I don't know what prices are where you live, but to catch those special moments that may never happen again, results outweigh expenditure.

-- Jeff Thomsen (jesper@mozart.inet.co.th), April 07, 1999.

A question for Jeff. I was wondering how you were shooting with your setup and avoiding red-eye. With mine unless I mount my cmaera on a tripod and use a sc-17 remote cord and raise my sb28 about 18 inches above the camera I get red-eye if my subjects are more then 12 feet away from me. Are you using a flash bracket or mounting your camera on a tripod?

-- Gary Wilson (gwilson@ffca.com), April 07, 1999.

Gary, I have the SB28 directly on the camera's hotshoe, on the TTL setting. The F90x with 80-200f2.8 are attached to a Manfrotto monopod with a small ballhead of the same brand. Two weeks ago I shot 3 rolls from above, level with and below the stage area, ranging in distance from 6 to 25 feet. I had one shot with red eye, a teacher whose face was turned sideways to me when I took her picture. This was the first and only time so far this has happened, but it was actually from a distance of about 12-14ft. I also shot 2 rolls with an F5 using this setup without any problems. On the other hand at the closer distances the children have a tendency to look directly at the big camera, but again I've never experienced any redeye effect. Sorry I can't be more technical, hope this helps. Jeff

-- Jeff Thomsen (jesper@mozart.inet.co.th), April 08, 1999.