Can someone explain the difference between slide and print film, and the difference between consumer and professional film. When you have slide file processed, do you get back slides that you use in a slide projector or do you get back prints or regular photo's. The reason I'm considering slide film is because I want to use a film with ISO of less than 100, like ISO 64, 50, or 25. I've read good reviews on Fuji Velvia and Reala and the Kodak ISO 64 film, but I want to get back regular pictures from the photo lab. Also, regular file is called 35-24 or 35-36 for 35mm and 24 or 36 exposures respectively, and pro film is labled as 135-24 or 135-36. Does this mean it isn't 35mm film and has to be used in a professional type camera like a Mamiya or Lecia or can I use pro file in a regular 35mm SLR. I have a Nikon N50 and 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 lens.

Thanks.

-- Kevin Lowman (kevin.lowman@mci.com), March 31, 1999

Answers

You get back slides from slide film. Getting prints from them is a pain. So far, I have had better luck scanning them with an HP PhotoSmart scanner, and printing them on an HP 895Cse printer than I have with either the local lab that does digital (read scanned and printed) or the lab that sends out to a Kodalux lab that supposedly does Type R (direct from slide to paper) prints. I have catalogs/price lists comming from 2 of the companies that Philip recommends on photo.net, so my luck may improve.

As far as shooting with prints in mind, stick with print film. If you need slower than 100 speed film for long exposure effects use a neutral density filter. If you are just looking for finer grain, etc, the current 100 speed films will probably be as good, if not better than the average print from a slide.

Why use slides at all then? After years of using Kodak Ektar/Royal Gold 25, almost every other serious print film looks dull by comparison. While certainly not a replacement, slide film colors have an incredible "snap" to them. After a few thousand 4 X 6 prints end up laying around your house for the dozen or so enlargements on your walls, you stop caring as much about being able to show each frame of every roll to your friends and family.

As you can see, this topic could drag on for a very long time. I haven't covered every aspect of slide vs print, and I'm probably not the best one to do that anyway. Pick your films for what you need from them. Print film for prints, slide film for slides is a pretty good rule, but it is not cast in stone. Of course then you have to start worrying about films for portraits, high color saturation, general purpose, Kodak vs Fuji, etc, etc.

As for the sizes, 35mm and 135 are one and the same.

-- Brad (bhutcheson@iname.com), April 01, 1999.

This is an old thread, but since someone asked a question recently, I guess I will do a follow-up.

I have sent off to The Slideprinter several times, and have been happy with the results. I have heard that lightjet prints are better, but they are about 4 times the cost, if not more, so I haven't tried that route yet. If I had been unhappy with Slideprinter, that would have probably been the next thing I tried.

This probably isn't the place to discuss what works well in a PhotoSmart scanner, but I'll answer anyway. So far the only film I have had real trouble with has been Fuji Velvia. Other films are a problem if the exposure is wrong, and all need some post scan sharpening, but I never could get well exposed Velvia slides to look right.

-- Brad Hutcheson (bhutcheson@iname.com), March 25, 2001.

Brad has made some good points; however, you CAN have slides made from negatives (print film) as well as prints from transparancies (slides). But, as is so often true in life, nothing is impossible...just expensive.

The best results for prints from slides is having an internegative made. I-neg film is available in many different sizes, from 35mm up to 8x10 sheets, and larger sizes, on special order. The only two brands on the market that I know of are made by Kodak and Fuji.

Unless you have a fully equipped colour darkroom at your disposal, you would want to have the internegatives made by a professional colour laboratory. I say professional because you CAN make i-negs on ordinary camera film, but the results will be inferior to those made on the product designed for that purpose. Those negs can then be printed, much like any other colour negative.

You can have slides made from negatives on a product made by Kodak, Vericolor Print Film for large transparancies (4x5 and larger), or on Vericolor Slide Film, for 35mm slides. A pro colour lab would be the place to have those made for you.

But if all you want or need are prints made for relatives from your slides, a scan and output as per Brad's recommendation is good. Or, you could have reversal prints made from your slides, a service offered by most photofinishers.

My film of choice is B&W negative film; when I work in colour, I use colour slide film. If, as so often happens to photographers, you are handed the job of photographing Christmas dinner, a family birthday party or the christining of your wife's best friend's newborn child, then that is the time to load up with colour negatiuve film.

Generally speaking, on a shot-per-shot basis, if you need prints, it is cheaper to use colour negative film and get a second set of prints made as giveaways. Or, have a contact sheet made for yourself in colour or B&W to keep and give the 4x6 prints away. When shooting an event, such as the ones mentioned above, I use colour negative film and get a second set of prints made. My wife files the snapshots in an album, gives away the second set, and I make a contact print on Panalure paper for filing with rest of my contact sheets.

Professional film is sold when the colour balance has been optimized by the manufacturer for best results. Pro slide film will usually have some indication on the box or package of the EXACT film speed, as well as a recommendation for which CC (Colour Correction) filters, if any, should be used for that particular batch of film.

For example, if you buy a roll of pro colour slide film which has a nominal speed of 100, you may open the box and find the speed is actually 125 for that particular batch. Pros will test each emulsion that they buy, and calibrate their meters against the film AND processing. If you are going to use pro film, a test would be in order each time you buy a new batch of film. And if you are going to go this far, you should stick with one lab.

And the film MUST be kept cool, usually below 50:F. Refrigeration is better, and if you are going to keep it for longer than three months, freezing it is necessary.

Whew! That was a bit long-winded; feel free to e-mail me if you have any specific questions.

-- Terrence Brennan (tbrennan13@hotmail.com), September 22, 1999.

What is the best film for scanning with an HP PhotoSmart film scanner, if the primary use is for publication on a website?

-- Guan Yang (guan@unicast.org), March 19, 2001.