I know this seems bad asking a question about soloing. Because if your ready to solo you shouldn't have to ask. But, I have been learning everything myself, from reading everything I can on big walls and aid climbing, then going out and doing it. I have done a lot of short aid climbs and feel competent to solo. I just don't want to get on a climb and figure out I mis understood something. since I have to mentor to ask advice, I thought I could ask some of the very experienced climbers that read this page. If someone could give me the basic solo aid system using the clove hitch method, that would help me out, so I can see if I'm understanding what I'm reading right. also if anyone feels the clove hitch method is not good for a first time soloist, please feel free to recommend any other system. I have looked at the solo aid device, but would like to go with the cheaper method. Thanks for listening and helping out an aspiring wall rat.

-- Jeff Vaughn (noemail@jeff.com), December 20, 1998

Answers

Don't worry about asking stupid questions, we can't all live in Camp 4 for several years while learning to climb.

Basically, the system is this:

1. Place an anchor at the base of the pitch to handle an upwards pull.

2. From the anchor, pull up a little slack & attach to your harness with a clove hitch on a large locking biner.

3. Pull up some more slack & attach to your harness with a figure eight and another locking biner (back-up knot).

4. Place a piece in the rock & aid up to waist level.

5. Clip rope to piece, making sure that the piece is between your clove hitch connection & the anchor.

6. Repeat steps 4 & 5, feeding out more rope from the clove hitch as you gain altitude. Tie back-up knots every 15 feet or so (or whatever makes you comfortable) to catch you just in case the clove hitch fails.

7. Once at the top, fix the lead line to the top anchor.

8. To clean the pitch, you can either do it on rappel or rap the haul line & clean it as you normally would if you were seconding the pitch.

If you are hauling, you'll probably have to do a mini-haul to release the bag from the bottom anchor (loop a bight of rope through a biner a little higher up, haul the weight of the bag off the anchor, unclip the bag from the anchor, and then slowly lower the weight of the bag back onto the haul line).

There are quicker methods for solo hauling (i.e. fifi hook & prussick method), but they are more dangerous...I would stick to the slower, safer way for now.

There's nothing wrong with using the clove hitch method, people have been doing it for years. Just remember the logic...the rope runs from a bottom anchor, through your protection, to your clove hitch tie-in (a clove hitch is used because it allows you to feed rope easily as you move up with out having to untie). Remember to ALWAYS USE A BACK-UP KNOT.

Have fun!

-- Dave Condit (dcondit@aol.com), January 19, 1999.

Jeff is correct. The process is realitively simply. However; keeping the whole system well orginized is cruical. This goes without saying. This includes your racking system. The more jumbled mess you have the more difficult it's going to be to keep track of all your knots. Including your tie in's. Look, I myself have just ventured into this relm of aid climbing. It is undoubtedly rewarding. I'm glad to see your asking questions. It's great that there are people like Jeff who are not afraid to ask. Afterall most of us don't have the extra $500 dollars a day to go through some extensive course. However; I won't suggest that you shouldn't, rather you probably won't because you can't aford to. Look the two MOST IMPORTANT THINGS TO GET RIGHT, IS TO GET THE BELAY ANCHORS RIGHT, AND THE TIE INS. IF YOU ARE DOING MULTI-PITCH ROUTES AND EVERYTHING ELSE FAILS THESE TWO ITEMS WILL SAVE YOUR LIFE.

I MYSELF HAVE A QUESTION. IF YOU ARE DOING A MULTI-PITCH ROUTE AND YOU FALL. ALL YOUR GEAR FAILS SAY IF YOUR ON AN A4 OR BETTER (ACTUAL POSSIBLILITY), YOUR BELAY IS SET FOR AN UPWARD PULL THEN WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU GO RIPPIN PAST IT. OH SHIT LIGHTS OUT. SO IS IT ADVISED THEN TO SET A BELAY FOR BOTH?

-- Chris Johnson (mntklimr@yahoo.com), November 07, 2002.

In responce to the last comment. If you fall that far, would your really want to survive that fall anyway?

On a more serious note. I guess on way to save your self in that situation is to clip your rope to that upwards pulling "belay" anchor, then with the tail... clip a 8-on-a-bight to another anchor, this one set for a downward fall.

You aid guys are crazy, and you solo-aid guys should be commited. Have full thinking up ways to walk that thin line. I'll be over here top-roping.

-- Jim Davis (jmdavis384@aol.com), January 05, 2003.