I am just getting into big wall climbing. I have been spending alot of time up at Index,WA training on short aid routes for my Yosemite adventure in June. Is The Triple Direct really the best route for a first time up the Captain, I know its the easiest(rating wise), but I've really been looking at the Zodiac. Any feed back on this question would be greatly appreciated Also I just purchased one of the original A5 grade VII haulbags. It's in really good shape, but lacks the river bag closer of the new haul bags, along with the nice suspension of say the Metolius. Is this going to be a problem. Really I'm more concerned with water getting into my bag. I know that the suspension isn't going to be a DANA so I can live with that. Thanks for listening

-- Jeff Vaughn (Jeff@Alpine.com), November 15, 1998

Answers

If you do the Zodiac (way better that the TD) the route is very steep and water isn't a huge problem. Just make sure that the haul bag has a hole in the bottom of it so all the water runs out. One way you can keep the water to a min. is to hang you bag under the portaledge in a heavy storm. Just remember they used to use canvas sacks!!! Climb safe. Burt

-- Burt (epiclmber@hotmail.com), November 16, 1998.

The Triple Direct is really pretty easy, but there is some serious free climbing. There is a 5.8 slot just below grey ledges that is considerably harder than the 5.8 chimney on the Town Crier. I also did a serious pitch to get to Camp 4, although I was off route. I'm planning on doing the Zodiac this year. My impression is that it is much more difficult and serious than the TD.

Training at Index will get you plenty prepared, and your haul bag will be fine.

Steve

-- Steve Purcell (steve@mds.com), November 23, 1998.