I looking for a print developer that will give me warmer tones from papers like Forte Polywarmtone and Ilford Multigrade Warmtone. I've been using LPD 1:5, which is warmer than, say, Dektol, but I suspect there's something out there that will push the paper color even more in an olive-brown direction. I DON"T want a low-contrast developer like Selectol-Soft; I want normal contrast and rich blacks, but with warmer color. I've experimented with various toners lately, but I'm looking for a natural-looking olive-brown, as opposed to the stinky, yellow-orange of sulfide toners or the red-purple of concentrated selenium. Any suggestions?

-- Joel Pickford (pickimage@csufresno.edu), October 28, 1998

Answers

I use Ektonol Type 2 for warmer tones. It's softer working than Dektol (which I have come to think of as a special-purpose developer) but not really low contrast. I'm sure, however, that you could find something in the Photographer's Formulary catalog that would suit your needs. There are quite a few developing agents out there; I've experimented with many of them, but primarily with cold tone papers. Amidol might be the answer, though it's really expensive and rather problematical to use. Playing around with the bromide in the formula will change the tone, as will shorter development times. You might have to mix your own to get what you want. You might try Nelson Gold toner, which gives a split gold/olive tone on Ilford FB MC IV cold tone paper. It's a distinct alternative to the brown tones you mention.

-- Peter Hughes (leonine@redshift.com), October 28, 1998.

I've heard that if you save some old paper developer, then pour a bit of it into fresh developer the paper will warm up. I've not tried it myself, but I could be worth a shot.

-- Bob Tipton (btip487@msn.com), October 29, 1998.

I think that you might want to give Selectol a try, not Selectol- Soft. Selectol is a popular developer for warm tone papers, Selectol- Soft is a neutral tone developer. In the Selectol, contrast can be varied by dilution which will also effect the tone. More warmth can also be had by the addition of potassium bromide.

-- Jeff White (zonie@computer-concepts.com), October 29, 1998.

I have been mixing and experimenting my own darkroom chemistry for a few years. I have tried to get a warmer developer for Ilford MG WT and have made a formula that works without adding glycine. (Glycine stains the image more than giving warm blacks to the emulsion.) This is a modified formula for the old Defender 55-D portrait developer. Be aware that, with most papers, the developer itself makes only a suble difference in the color of the print.

Water:(120F):500ml Metol: 2.5 grams Sodium sulfite, anhydrous:37.5 grams Hydroquinone: 10 grams Potassium carbonate: 50 grams Potassium bromide: 20 grams Water to make 1 liter.

Dilute 1:2 and develop for 2 minutes. To get more warmth, you can make up a 10% solution of potassium bromide and add it an ounce or so at a time to the working solution of developer. Because it acts as a restrainer, the bormide solution may require longer printing times. Too much will cause fogging. Any slight green cast (in some papers) will be eliminated with the standard selenium toning bath.

-- Michael D Fraser (mdfraser@earthlink.net), December 24, 1998.